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How to Identify Authentic Selvedge Denim

Author: Eric     Publish Time: 2024-11-25      Origin: Henry Textile

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Are you tired of falling for fake selvedge denim? Do you want to ensure you're getting the real deal when investing in a premium pair of jeans? Look no further! In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know to confidently identify authentic selvedge denim.

We’ll dive into the key characteristics of selvedge denim, from the signature selvage edge to subtle construction details. By the end of this guide, you’ll be able to shop for selvedge denim with confidence, knowing how to identify authentic pieces. Let’s unravel the mysteries of selvedge denim together!


Features of Selvedge Denim


Selvedge denim refers to denim fabric woven on traditional shuttle looms. The term "selvedge" comes from "self-edge," referring to the finished edge of the fabric that prevents fraying or unraveling.

The history of selvedge denim dates back to the early 1900s and was the standard production method until the 1950s and 60s when modern, more efficient looms took over. These shuttle looms created narrower strips of denim, typically around 30 inches wide, compared to the 60+ inches produced by modern looms.

Key characteristics of selvedge denim include:

  • The hallmark finished edge or "self-edge" along the outseam.

  • A colored thread (often red) woven into the selvage edge.

  • Denser, more tightly woven fabric.

  • Heavier weight (13-32 oz compared to 9-12 oz for standard denim).

  • Unique character and variation in the fabric.

  • Often made with higher-quality cotton.

To identify selvedge denim, examine the cuff or hem of the jeans. Authentic selvedge will have a clean, self-finished edge, often with a distinctive colored ID thread.


Spotting the Selvage Edge


Now that you know what feature selvedge denim have, and how can you identify it?

  1. Check the Cuff or Outseam: Flip up the hem of the jeans to inspect the outseam. Authentic selvedge has a tightly woven, finished edge running along its entire length. This edge should be clean and smooth, not frayed or messy.

  2. Look for the Colored Thread: Red is the most common selvage ID color, but other hues, like white, green, or yellow, are used by different brands. Vintage Levi’s often featured a white selvage edge, while Lee used blue or green.

  3. Measure the Selvage Edge Width: Genuine selvage typically measures 1/4 to 1/2 inch wide. Edges that are significantly wider or narrower may be a red flag.

  4. Feel the Texture: Run your fingers along the edge. It should feel smooth and tightly woven, with consistent quality throughout.

Beware of counterfeits! Some manufacturers fake the selvage look by sewing a separate fabric strip to mimic the edge. Check if the selvage is continuous with the denim fabric to confirm authenticity.


Shopping Tips of Selvedge Denim


Knowing where to shop is essential when searching for authentic selvedge denim. Here’s some tips you sure follow to:

  • Research the retailer’s reputation through online reviews and forums.

  • Look for detailed product descriptions, including fabric weight, origin, and features.

  • Be wary of prices that seem too good to be true.

  • Ask questions; knowledgeable retailers will provide specific details.

  • Check for a reasonable return policy, indicating confidence in product quality.


Price as an Indicator


Price can be a helpful indicator of authenticity.

Why the Higher Price?
Selvedge denim is more expensive due to its labor-intensive production process, higher-quality materials, and traditional weaving methods. Genuine selvedge jeans typically range from $150 to $300, though premium brands can cost $500 or more.

Beware of Extremes:

  • Extremely low prices may signal counterfeits.

  • High prices don’t always guarantee authenticity.

Remember, while price matters, it should be considered alongside other factors like quality and reputation.


Care Instructions and Authenticity

Pay attention to the care instructions provided by the manufacturer.

Authentic selvedge denim often requires special care:

  • Infrequent Washing: Wash as little as possible to preserve color and character.

  • Cold Water: Avoid hot water to prevent shrinkage and excessive fading.

  • Hang Drying: Machine drying can damage the fabric and alter the fit.

  • Turn Inside Out: Protects the outer appearance during washing.

Generic or overly simplistic care labels may indicate counterfeit or low-quality denim.


Conclusion


To sum up, here’s how to identify authentic selvedge denim:

  1. Examine the selvage edge for a tightly woven, consistent finish.

  2. Assess overall quality, including weight, stitching, and hardware.

  3. Research reputable brands and retailers.

  4. Consider price as an indicator, but avoid extremes.

  5. Check the care instructions for tailored guidance specific to selvedge denim.

By keeping these factors in mind, you’ll be well-equipped to find genuine selvedge denim. And Henry Textile can provide you quality and favorable selvedge denim, just contact us and dive into the world of selvedge with confidence!


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